I followed the trusty recipe, this time adding a generous amount of cocoa powder and gelatin while the coconut milk and yolk mixture was warm. Turned out it was also a generous amount of gelatin.
It tasted pretty good pre-ice cream maker as a custard. Once in the ice cream maker, it didn't change much in volume.
However, I did end up with something a bit like gelato - dense, chewy, and warm.
I made 1.5x the original recipe, and probably ended up with 1.5 T of gelatin.
So go ahead and see how you like this dairy-free gelato. Just because it doesn't turn into ice cream doesn't mean it's not a great dessert.
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